Mount Himlung 7126 meters (23,379 feet) is a stunning peak that stands in the Peri Himalaya sub-range north-west of the Manaslu range. It is right next to the Tibet border. You can ind the exact location of Mt. Himlung on The Peak profile website of Nepal Government, Tourism Ministry. The gorgeous peak offers a challenging and rewarding experience for climbers. It is becoming one of the most popular 7000-meter peaks for climbing in the Himalayas.
Mt. Himlung is one of the best practice peaks for those preparing to climb an 8000-meter peak in their climbing endeavor. Standing at an impressive height, its surroundings are breathtaking scenery, including majestic neighboring Himalayan peaks, deep valleys, and pristine glaciers. Its location, level of technical climbing challenges, and stunning views make it a popular choice for mountaineers.
Climbing Mount Himlung certainly requires proper planning, equipment, and a good level of physical fitness. The climbing journey begins with trekking to the base camp of Mt. Himlung, which begins from Kathmandu by riding through a windy road to Koto by a jeep. The small village of Koto is one of the stations in the famous Annapurna Circuit trail where trekkers walk through. From Koto to Mt. Himlung base camp it is a four day’s easy trekking.
The trek falls in a less visited pristine area of Nar Phu valley. It’s also a controlled trekking area where one requires a special permit to trek in. The climbing trip organizer such as Three Jewels Adventures includes the trekking permit along with the climbing permit for Mt. Himlung Himal. Nar Phu Valley trekking up to Himlung base camp is a memorable adventure offering a glimpse into the unique culture and tradition of the local Manangi People.
As the trek goes village to village, the vista of the surrounding landscape, including the snowy peaks of Mt. Annapurna and Manalsu range gives both inspiration and a feeling of a lifetime experience. Koto, Methang, Nar Phedi, Kyang, and Phu Gaon are small settlements. Along these places, tea houses with facilities for food and simple accommodation are available. Phu Gaon is the last permanent settlement in the valley from where it’s about half a day’s walk to the base camp.
The base camp of Mt. Himlung awaits climbers with their tent, cook staff, food tent, toilet tent, and dining and cooking tents. Once at the base camp, the acclimatization process starts. This involves, at least 4-5 nights stay at the base camp. During the casual day times, activities such as hike to nearby glaciers, and getting familiar with the climbing guides and other staff take place. Climbers and guides learn rope coordination and equipment usage during this time as well.
While climbers are resting and acclimatizing at the base camp, the local climbing crew, the guides, and sherpas set rope and supplies to the upper camps. Round of meetings regarding moving forward, and analyzing weather forecasts are also held while resting at the base camp.
From the base camp, the real climbing begins towards Camp I, Camp II, Camp III, and finally to the summit. Round of visiting upper camps and return to base camp will take place for even better acclimatization. Depending on the decision of the climbing guide and team members one can go up to any of the upper camps, spend the night, and return to the base camp.
Also based on the group members’ choice there can be an opportunity to fix the rope and set the camp along with the local guides. Nevertheless, the observation of the upper camps can be completed in a week. After this process, there will be some days of rest and final preparation for the summit.
Depending on the decision of the team, the final climbing process will start from the base camp to Camp I, Then to Camp II, and then eventually to Camp III and the summit! If everything goes as per the plan, it takes five days to complete the summit bid. Three nights you will spend in the respective three camps and on the summit day, you will return to Camp III and on the fifth day to the base camp.
Himlung Himal Climbing From Base Camp to Upper Camps and Summit
Base Camp to Camp I
From base camp to Camp I at an altitude of 5435 meters / 17826 ft is about three hours of trekking. This section refers to trekking, as this part of the route doesn’t need a crampon. Simply gradual altitude gain while walking through a small valley with moraines.
Camp I to Camp II
This part of the climbing is considered the most tricky section of the whole climbing involving scree slopes, rocky sections and glaciers, crevasses combined rocks and snow. The activity of the climbing in this section is roughly five hours. The camp ii is at an altitude of 5900 meters.
Camp II to III
This is also an easy walk and gradual altitude gain that completes in three hours. There is no danger of avalanche or crevasse along the climb. All or mostly snowy section. This last camp is at 6210 meters.
Himlung Summit Attempt from Camp III
Summit day is usually divided into three sections, the first part is slope climb, the second part is easy and gradual altitude gain, and the final part again is steep climbing up to the summit. It’s a long day of roughly 10 hours. The entire route as in between lower camps here too, is set by fixed ropes. The climbers are connected of course via the rope. Guides plan to reach the summit by 10 AM the latest for you will start at 1 AM to stand at the stunning 7126 meters (23373 meters). After spending some time, return to camp III. And then eventually to base camp on the following day!
How Long Do You Require to Climb Mt. Himlung?
Depending on your ability, you may complete the entire climbing period in three weeks as we have seen in the past by other climbers. However, to allow plenty of time for rest and comfortably complete the whole project we suggest you have at least 30 days from Kathmandu back to Kathmandu.
Following is a tentative breakdown of the days and places you spend on your journey to this mountain.
Days – 1 to 4: Kathmandu, permit, meeting organizers, other members, and a visit to the Department of Tourism in Kathmandu for a mandatory briefing by a government officer.
Day 05: Travel by jeep to Koto
Days 6-9: Trek to base camp
Days 10 to 14 Rest, training, acclimatizing
Days 14 to 18 More acclimatizing, visit to upper camps
Days 19 – 24 Summit Push!
Days 25-26 Extra days
Days 27 to 31 Final days to return to Kathmandu!
Mount Himlung serves as an excellent practice peak for mountaineers ambitious to tackle the world’s highest peaks. The mountain is a test of determination, adaptability, and skills. Its combination of modest-level technical challenges, and cultural experience during the approach trek makes it an ideal package for climbing to have a memorable experience. Keep on climbing!
PS. Inquiry to climb this peak can be sent to office@threejewelsadv.com
This Blog Post is by Amber Tamang, Manager and Guide at Three Jewels Adventures, Kathmandu, Nepal
Photos are by guides who took clients on previous trips to Mt Himlung
